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Engine shutoff fails
There are many possible reasons for the engine failing
to shut off, but a common item to wear and fail is
the engine shutoff vacuum operated switch.
It can be found on page 19 of the motors workshop manual
just to the left and above the number 27, or in this
This item needs to be removed, an easy procedure, and
the two main parts separated by unbending the retaining
Inside, the rubber diaphragm will be found to have
This can be repaired by using a rubber glue that remains
flexible, eg. a shoe repair glue, and placing a thinnish
flexible blob over the split.
Reassemble and reinstall.
This repair will survive for quite some time, and saves
you a fortune !
Gravel and sand roads
When traveling on gravel
roads, reduce your speed and reduce tyre pressure.
This will substantially reduce the risk of tyre failure,
and other damage from flying rocks.
On sand, reduced pressure improves traction and reduces
Be sure to reinflate tyres when back on the seal.
When an RB145 bus fitted as a motorhome is fully loaded,
the gross weight will be close to 6 Tonnes.
According to tyre charts, front tyres need to be 10
ply minimum and operate at 75 psi (5.17 bar) and rear
tyres need to be 12 ply at 85 psi (5.86 bar).
(Tyre pressures depend on the make of the tyre so check
for your tyres.)
However these pressures results in a harsh ride and
increases the possibility of tyre damage.
It is recommended to have tyre pressures at; front
70 psi (4.83 bar) and rear 75psi (5.17 bar). For these
pressures, 10 ply tyres may suffice.
This also improves steering and may reduce sway if
your vehicle suffers from this.
The increase in fuel consumption is not significant.
and here (light
Springs and dampers
Hino RB145 buses converted to motorhomes are at the
maximum weight for the spring sets, and adding an extra
leaf to each spring set dramatically improves the ride,
and avoids or reduces bottoming out.
Truck & Bus Repairs Wodonga, Victoria, do an
excellent and price competitive job.
Engineering Atherton, Queensland, possibly
do the best job in the country. Not only do they add
a leaf to each spring set, but each set is removed
and individually retempered.
the pioneer and leading supplier of Australian designed
shock absorbers and suspension components for trucks,
buses, 4WD’s and European vans. Our shock absorbers
have been specifically designed for Australian roads
and climatic conditions. Powerdown has an extensive
distribution network throughout Australia and New Zealand.
Phone 02 4949 0000.
Front Shock absorber, RT 336. (road train)
Rear Shock absorber, RT104M3, heavy duty, non adjustable
with bushings to fit
Cost $225 per pair (2013)
Be sure to check the dampers (shock absorbers) are
working, or have them replaced.
Air Conditioner V Belts
Any one who has had to purchase V belts may have received
a shock at the price.
Well the other day the air con did not work and I thought
it had lost it's gas.
After organising an appointment at an air con fixer
place, I decided to check if the engine was still in
the housing as it has performed flawlessly for some
long time, actually since the last oil change, and
lo and behold, the air con belts were not there !
Well only the remnants remained. So being computer
savvy I decided to look on line and found the first
link to be Super Cheap Auto. Yes they had the right
size, code 11A1130M and only $19.99 for the pair !!!
Not only does the air con work better, I am a happy
and cooler man.
PS if any one purchases the belts for the alternator
or the steering pump, please pass the code onto Admin,
email at top of page - thanks.
Air conditioner compressor replacement. Sanden model
part number cxs7867, sd7h15 it is a universal type
and you will need an adapter plate.
Reading oil dip stick
I would like to know how to read the oil dipstick,
there are no marks showing low or full however there
appears to be a very small slot approximately 25mm
long but showing no levels, I am only guessing the
bottom of the cutout is low and the top is full but
this only a guess and that I do not like. My motor
is the W40C-T. I presume they are all similar ? Norm
Norm, You are right, that is how Hino does the oil
levels. You are also right regarding the motor, they
are all W40C's and the T is for turbo-charged. Another
way to check the oil, when you do an oil change, put
on a new filter, add exactly 11 litres, start the engine
to fill the oil ways and filter, and then stop, wait
a minute for the oil to settle and then check the oil
measuring stick, and it should be on the full mark,
or top end of the slot. All the best, and thanks for
the question, glad to be able to help. Happy travels.
While on the subject of oil, grade to use is 15W40,
and change oil and filter every 10,000 km. At the same
time, clean the air filter. Try and grease the nipples
every 5,000 km.
RB145 on car license
There is a person advertising an RB145A for sale on
Gumtree and also advertising that it can be driven
on a car licence. Somehow he's had it de-rated to a
GVM of 4495kgs to bypass the light rigid driving licence
requirements and also the yearly safety inspections.
Problem is, as we all know, is that you cannot get
a fitted out RB145 under 4500kgs under any circumstances,
so if some poor person buys this vehicle believing
they can, they will certainly be in trouble if the
vehicle is weighed by state transport authorities and
worse still, if they are unfortunate enough to have
an accident, their insurance may be void (refer to
Collyn Rivers latest article in the Wanderer). I would
just ask that if you know someone considering a Hino
that you please point this out to them so they don't
get caught out.
Ed comment - the tare weight of the RB145 without the
seats is 4495 kg.
Hino extra radiator
The Australian assembled RB145 has an extra radiator
behind the air conditioner condenser on the right hand
side of the bus.
The imported RB145A's don't have this extra radiator
and I was wondering if any of these owners have had
any overheating issues whilst traveling Oz? I've heard
of an owner who added extra cooling for towing but
that's all. Perhaps our 'group' can shed some light
on whether their vehicles cope ok without the extra
When I remove my small radiator I was planning on using
'blank off' rubber caps 16mm I think they are, plus
hose clamps obviously, to ensure the water flows straight
through to the front radiator and back again.
Admin - I have driven in 40 degree heat full throttle
up the steep central divide mountains in third gear
for a long time, and no overheating. The temperature
gauge will rise much hotter than normal as
per the owners manual until the electric fans
start, and right to the top of the normal zone, but
this is below the RED zone. I have heard on more than
one occasion of owners modifying cooling systems as
they believed their units were over heating, but this
is not the case.
photos from Les Trask
Bus heater system removal
Hi my Hino RB145 has a water pump in front of the left
side rear wheel which was for the heater system I think.
I have removed the heaters and would like to remove
it and the redundant pipes, as I would like to fit
a water tank there. Can anyone tell me if this possible?
Gary, the water pump and diesel heater unit you
are referring to is to heat the engine water system
for the bus in the extreme cold of Japanese winters.
It is possible to remove this system in total as well
as all the bus interior heaters along with all the
pipe work from the engine and return.
The electrics need to be disconnected beneath the floor
and the terminals protected from the environment by
sealing in a plastic bag and securely tied to the chassis.
PS On the other side of the bus is the diesel heater
unit to keep the system from freezing in the -30C temperatures
of the Japanese winters. This can also be removed.
Seal the diesel line that comes from the tank. This
line can be used to supply diesel to a diesel heater
unit to heat the bus internally to great effect.
Note: the outlet to this line is not at the bottom
of the tank, so you can not run out of fuel for the
engine, or put another way, the fuel will stop flowing
here before the tank is empty, just in case you wonder
why the heater stopped when there is still 10 or 15
litres of fuel in the tank - Ron
After a lot of searching I stumbled over a useful source
of 17.5 x 6.00 tubeless rims with the correct 5 stud
centres and 127mm offset.
These allow the use of 215/75 or 205/80R17.5 tubeless
tyres and fully comply with the Hino parts manual.
For anyone interested, contact Dave or Nathan at Tyreright,
Tel. 08 9302 5055 or firstname.lastname@example.org.
They import them by the container load for NW mining
use and sell them at $170 each.
Cheers Bob Wood .
Admin - I asked Bob if he could
give an insight into the use of the tyres - here
is his reply.
When I bought the bus it was
sitting on 17.5 x 5.25 tubeless rims which had 115mm
offset and 8mm centre thickness. I now know these
were commonly fitted to the somewhat lighter Hino
Dutro trucks as well as Toyota Dynas. The tyres were
215/75 Yokohamas on the front and 205/80 Bridgestones
on the back and were all in very good condition.
I found it had some tendency to wander and all the
usual swaying problems.
The swaying was largely tamed by replacing the shock
absorbers at both ends – the rears are the Powerdown
specials RT104M3 – and anti-roll bar bushes. This is
the first bus I have ever driven and is the complete
opposite of my normal drive.
My research revealed that the rims were the minimum
recommended size for the 205/80s but below minimum
for the 215/75s and with little published data to work
with, I had inflated them to 70psi. It felt OK, but
I had nothing to compare with. With my tyres now fitted
to the new rims the tyre place inflated them to 90psi.
I have only driven it the 100km home since the new
wheels were fitted but it certainly rolls along a little
easier and maintains speed with a little less throttle.
That may indicate that the 70psi was too low. The wandering
also seems to be less, and to me it feels more ‘planted’,
although that may be wishful thinking, I’d just parted
with a chunk of unbudgeted money :-(
front tyres will now be sitting a little flatter, due
to the wider rim, but may take a while to settle and
wear to their new format. The track at the front is
about the same as it was. The track at the rear is
effectively increased by a few mm due in part to the
offset but also the 2mm extra in centre thickness.
The outside edge of the rim is just about flush with
the body side. There are no conflict problems on the
then the footprint is marginally wider but the tyres
are much better supported, lessening the tendency for
the tyre to flex sideways relative to the wheel.
On my limited experience I am pleased with the result.
Of course, I already had the tubeless tyres so my cost
was to replace 6 rims and to buy a complete spare rim & tyre
as my spare had been a 16”. Compared with the original
spec 7.00R16 on a split rim, the overall rolling diameter
is effectively the same but the tubeless tyre will
run cooler. I shall be carrying a repair plug kit which
hopefully would allow me to repair a flat without removing
the wheel – time will tell.
Having spoken with many arms of the wheel and tyre
industry over the last few weeks, it is nice to be
able to prove wrong those eminent gentlemen who assured
me that “you won’t get any”, “they don’t make them”,
they wouldn’t be allowed”, “you’ll need all new tyres
as well” etc. etc. I’m sure you’ve also encountered
some of these ‘experts’.
The responses I got when I asked for feedback showed
that many are running 7.00R16s while some have opted
for 7.50R16s. Nobody else had gone tubeless but that
choice had already been taken by the previous owner
of my bus.
Interestingly, the operator of a local school bus contractor
runs all of his smaller buses on 215/75s and swears
The other gem was that in the Bridgestone range, 205/80s
are $300 each, 215/75s are $430 each.
Swing away spare tyre
List of components 1 - 50*50*1.5 Square 735mm
1 - 50*50*1.5 - 725mm
1 - 50*50*1.5 - 660mm
1 - 50*50*1.5 - 935mm
1 - 50*50*1.5 - 355mm
1 - 40*40*3 angle - 70mm - external top mount
1 – 65*65*5 angle - 150mm - main bottom mount
1 – 30*5 flat - 60mm - anti luce tab
1 - 60*3 flat - 100mm - internal mount for top bracket
2 - nylon bushed hinges
1 - Anti Luce Lock
3 - 100*25mm bolts cut to suit
3 – nuts to suit bolts
4 nuts and bolts to mount the carrier to the bumper
and the top mount 12mm diameter and about 30mm long
I bought the hinges and anti luce lock from OVESCO
and the heavy bolts from a local bolt specialist.
The anti luce lock should be available from any trailer
parts place. (This is a common device on trailer tailgates).
Swivel front seats ?
Has anyone got drawings or other information regarding
swivel seats for the front ? Bob
Important stuff to know DO
NOT bolt anything to the floor until you have
located the seat to your preferred driving position
and you are sure it will rotate properly without hitting
To start with, use the original mounting holes. The
engineers like this a lot.
If you can’t utilise the holes at least use the
original brackets, this too is really good. But make
sure you fill the holes to stop water etc. getting
Use 8mm high tensile bolts and nylock nuts.
Use 3mm plate to make the new mounts.
Check out Vehicle Standards Bulletins - used to be
called DOTARS -for everything related to engineering
in motor vehicles, trailers, etc. ( link
I used Subaru seats because they had a arm rest but
the seat was too long and hit my calf all the time,
they also had a pressed metal base and formed foam
which tended to get uncomfortable after a while. So
I changed to Hilux seats. These are a lot (50mm) shorter
in the seat and have springs under the foam to give
a nicer ride, they are also a smallish seat (as opposed
to something out of a commodore).
When you find a seat simply cut the old pressed metal
mounts off and bolt the runners directly to the new
mounts you make.
Drivers side floor to rotating seat base
* 370mm long 3mm plate bent to 50mm * 30mm. Note that
the bracket is over bent to suit the rotating base.
This is the rear bracket. The 50mm edge is bolted to
the floor utilising the original under-floor reinforcing
brackets. The front is exactly the same. It’s all mounted
inside the frame of the rotating base.
Bolt the bent bracket to the rotating base.
Rotating base to seat brackets.
bit is going to depend entirely on the type of seat
you end up buying. I have used Toyota Hi Lux seats
because they are relatively small and they have inner
springs to help with the comfort factor.
2 * 370 long *85 wide 3mm plate bent to a Z section.
Remember you need left and right brackets. The 40mm
and the 25mm are to make up for the difference in width
between the rotating base and the seat. The 20mm
is for height adjustment depending on how tall you
are. This is the right hand side bracket. In this photo
I have used a nut as a spacer to allow the slide to
Car seats are usually built so the driver is leaning
backward a bit with the legs extended out in front.
In this photo I have used a piece of tube at the rear
to bring the seat up to more level so I can sit more
upright. Again this is entirely adjustable to preference.
you have everything bolted together you can start playing
with where you want the seat to be located. In cars
the relationship between the steering wheel, the pedals
and the seat never line up. It might feel good but
if you get a tape measure out you’ll be surprised at
how far out of alignment they really are. So when you
are playing with seat positioning don’t be too surprised
to find that the seat may not be exactly parallel with
the side of the bus. I moved my seat inboard a bit
to allow it to rotate properly and then turned it a
bit (about 10mm off square) so my feet lined up with
the pedals. This also had the benefit of giving me
a bit of elbow room.
* 420mm long 3mm plate bent to 50mm * 30mm . The passenger
side is much the same as the driver side except for
the narrower mud guard. Which means the seat is going
to hang (unsupported) over the edge. I welded a small
bracket to the overhang and then bolted the bracket
onto the mudguard. How much overhang you have is going
to depend on how much room you need to rotate the seat.
In this photo you can see how the overhang ends about
60mm past the mudguard and in line with the bottom
edge of the guard. I have also moved the seat belt
On another RB 145 I worked on, I extended the mudguard
out to level with the width of the seat which looked
really nice. But the seat belt mount was a lot of mucking
around fixing it to the floor frame and the narrower
walkway made things a bit tight.
With the passenger seat I got a bit fancy and made
the base to seat bracket on a taper to pick the back
edge up a bit. This is 50mm at the rear and 20mm at
the front. In
this photo you can see the seat on the tapered bracket
bolted to the base. And the base bolted to the mudguard
bracket with the overhang nicely supported.
DOTARS has all the specifications on seat belt mounts
so double check everything. I used 3mm plate 60mm *
nut is welded to the backing plate and the backing
plate is riveted into position so it doesn't move when
you tighten the bolt. This photo of the passenger side
shows the seat belt mount and one of the plates that
support the overhang brackets inside. Note the rounded
corners on everything and it’s all painted to prevent
rust and look a bit professional.
The gear shift
moving the drivers seat you will probably find that
the gear shift fouls somewhere. An easy fix is to cut
it and move it sideways. I’ve been told this is a common ‘fix’ when
converting (expensive) cars form left hand to right
Air Con woes
I had a problem with the air con compressor and the
thing froze up.
The first time this happened it shredded the drive
belts, so thinking that there was a bit of slippage
I did the belts up a bit tighter.
Then it happened again tore the rubber out of the clutch.
You can’t buy these bits.
I have found a local company who can vulcanise the
rubber back into the air con clutch.
I had to make a jig to hold both the inner and outer
bits in perfect alignment but it works. The cost was
a few dollars to buy the steel for the jig and a carton
of beer for the vulcanising.
So if you have a problem with the air con clutch it
can be repaired.
Now I have to find out why the compressor is freezing
up, but I think the fans are not working.
The company I found to repair my air con clutch is
called WEARX at Hexham, not far from Newcastle. http://www.wearx.com.
They do not repair air con clutches but they do vulcanise
rubber so they said they would do it for me if I made
the jig to hold the two pieces in perfect central alignment.
Put that info onto your resources page for future reference.
An update to my earlier air con problems. It turns
out that the reason for the unit ‘freezing’ up was
actually the magnetic clutch bearing. Mike Varley from
Mt Isa (on our list) pointed me in the right direction.
The bearing is a massive 2 race unit and literally
half the bearings were missing. This was causing the
pulley to stop turning and thus destroying the drive
It could sit and idle all day and the pressures were
all correct which was why all the air con specialists
I went to could not find anything wrong with it and
suggested that the air con pump had a problem. Not
one of these specialists suggested looking at the clutch
Wheel Winder Part Required
Does anyone know where I could procure the eccentric
spindle that winds up the chain to lift the spare wheel
After contacting many wreckers around the country I
had no luck.
On a recent visit to NZ, I looked on line and talked
to a couple of truck wreckers.
As I drove around I visited one in Taranaki, just north
of New Plymouth, and he also did not have one, but
suggested I try one off an old Mitsubishi truck. I
took the whole unit back to base by Qantas hoping the
spindle would fit, as it looked by eye to be good,
but on removing the old unit found the second hand
Mitsy unit is identical and fitted exactly. Looks like
the Chinese are not the only ones to use parts universally
I have just replaced the brass slipper plates in the
springs on my bus. To do this I had to make a little
jig to put the locating dimple in the plate (this just
holds it in place in the spring).
The front springs have to come out to fit the plates
(it’s not that hard a job and if you need bushes you
may as well do it while you are there). I haven’t fitted
the rear yet but I think it can be done in place by
spreading the leaves.
If any one is feeling keen and you want to do this
I could make them for you. One metre of brass costs
about $50.00 plus delivery and and I need to pay for
the use of oxy to heat it up enough to work it to shape.
I reckon I could make a set for $100.00 plus delivery
By comparison Hino tell me there are none in Australia
and wanted $68.00 for each slipper plate. There’s 16
It seems difficult to find wreckers for our Hino buses,
and not just in this country.
This maybe as a result of the great reliability of
So in summary this is what I have found -
Firstly look at the links page for
Secondly, any wrecker for small to medium Japanese
trucks should be tried, as often parts for other makes
of Japanese trucks are interchangable with Hino, for
example Mitzubishi, Nissan, etc.
And thirdly, spend a bit of time and read all the other
knowledge based information, it is surprising the little
hints that are imbedded in these gems of wisdom, and
just maybe the answer that alludes you.
Rust - Roof Line
Has anyone had experience with rust in the roof at
This appears to be a common problem with the RB 145’s.
I have had a fellow suggest that the problem occurs
because the air conditioner encourages moisture to
form in that area and that is why the newer models
have vents in the roof, to get rid of the moisture
So I am wondering if anyone has heard that explanation?
The other possible cause is moisture being sucked up
(via a vacuum effect) through the rear frame work.
I know from experience that dust and exhaust fumes
enter the bus via the rear column.
When I built the bus I was really amazed to find carbon
soot in the insulation material at least a third of
the way forward from the rear and fine dust in cavities
even further towards the front.
So am absolutely convinced that moisture laden air
gets into the area between the outer skin and the the
plastic air con liner where it condenses and sits on
the frame work and encourages rust to form.
I have made several little repairs to that area but
I realised the problem was never going away. I ended
up removing the entire curved bit (I call it a ‘hip’).
Well not all of it, but a length of 2.4 metres from
the front joint .
I wasn’t too surprised to find the rust had gotten
into the frame members, and that is where the trap
really exists. Everyone is probably repairing the visible
rust and not realising the rust is eating the frame
of the bus away.
I am interested in your thoughts on this issue and
if anyone is keen I could do a little ‘how to’ on replacing
the roof hip utilising the photos I took.
Yes I too have had rust problems in the roof area,
just above the guttering, and yes it is from condensation
which I have been told is common in the RB145's.
My thoughts are - it is caused by the cold air from
the air-con going along the roof line inside, where
the air comes out into the bus. This cold air would
cause condensation along the whole length of the bus,
the more and longer you use the air-con the more likely
you are to get moisture there, and if then you switch
off and park the bus, this moisture will eventually
The thing that could be done to get rid of this moisture
is to leave the fan for the air-con running for sometime
on high without the air-con going, before you put the
bus to sleep. My guess is that you would need to get
the bus warm again and run the fan for at least fifteen
Keep the engine running otherwise the battery will
be discharged and bus batteries should always remain
fully charged to ensure long life.
I took my bus to a panel shop and had the rust cut
out and replaced with steel. I think a fibre glass
fix up job is probably a waste of time.
And yes, make sure the panel shop does check for any